Sababa
Adeena Sussman
September 3, 2019 Avery
368
Sababa is one of those words that frustrated translators, because there is no easy way to explain in English what it truly means. In it’s proper cultural context, it can be used in almost any situation to connote that everything is copacetic. Sababa is a feeling of overall wellness and chill. Living life and enjoying it. Which might explain why Adeena Sussman’s cookbook, Sababa, feels like a breath of fresh air.
To get the awkward bit over first, there are some ingredients used that are harder to find in the U.S. If you have a good middle eastern grocery, you’ll be set. Some of the kosher stores are also carrying these ingredients lately. Otherwise, you might only be able to make some of these recipes seasonally. Which is fine, because they taste better that way. There are also some fun items that Sussman tells you how to make directly – like the preserved lemons – because they are admittedly not easy to find. They do take some time though.
If I had to describe Sababa in one word it would be “breezy.” These dishes feel perfect for brunch or quick meals with friends. The Za’atar chili feta bread and the shakshuka are tailor made for sitting out on the deck with friends and a cool glass of something sweet. Which is lucky, because Sussman also includes a cocktail section, and these drinks are delicious.
Even recipes that take a little more time, were worth the effort. I have, for a long time, wanted to make yerushalmi kugel. But I was never quite sure I’d get it right. Sussman’s recipe was easy to follow, I did not burn the caramel even once, and miracle of miracles it flipped out of the special Bundt pan I used and kept it’s shape perfectly. The salted caramel tahini tart was similarly divine. Took a bit more time than a slap and dash dessert, but it was so unique and unexpected I didn’t begrudge it the extra love and care it required. It will be the star of the table, even if five other people bring desserts.
Sababa is a state of mind, and the cookbook will help you get into that zone. Prep for a holiday meal or a party will be more casual, more free spirited, and the food will still come out gorgeous. We could all use some Sababa – in our kitchens, on our tables, and in our hearts.